In the P.M. had Calm until 2, when a light breeze sprung up at North by East, and we stood in for the Land East by North until 5, at which time we got the wind from the South-West, a light breeze, with which we steer'd North-East, edging in for the land, having it in sight from the Deck, and which I judged to be about 3 or 4 Leagues off, being very low land. Found the Variation to be 2 degrees 34 minutes East, and a little before 8 o'Clock, having but little wind, we Anchor'd in 7 fathoms, soft Muddy bottom. In the Afternoon and evening we saw several Sea Snakes, some of which the people in the Boat alongside took up by hand. At daylight in the Morning we got under sail, and stood away to the North-North-East, having a fresh gale at East, which by noon brought us into the Latitude of 7 degrees 14 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 30 minutes West; Depth of Water 13 fathoms. Course and distance sail'd since Yesterday Noon is North 24 degrees East, 27 Miles, having at this time no land in sight, for the Land, according to the Charts, trends more Easterly than the Wind would permit us to sail.
Saturday
Saturday, 1st September 1770
In the P.M. and most part of the night had a fresh breeze from the South-East with which we keept standing in for the land North-East and East-North-East, close upon a wind, until half past 6, when we Anchor'd in 4 1/2 fathoms, soft muddy bottom, as we have every were found upon the Coast. About an hour before we Anchor'd we saw the land from the Mast head extending from the East by North to South-South-East, all very low; at the time we Anchor'd we found a small drean* of a Tide setting away to the North-West, which continued until 2 in the morning, when the Water had fell 9 feet or better. This Tide of Ebb was then succeeded by the Flood, which came from the South-West; yet we did not find the Water to rise much upon a perpendicular, or else the greatest fall of the Tide had not been well attended to in the night, for at 6, when we got under sail, we had no more than 3 fathoms under the ship, and yet we could not see the land from the Deck. After getting under sail we stood to the Northward with a light breeze at East, and deepned our Water by noon to 10 fathoms, having the Land just in sight from the Mast head to the South-East. At this time we were in the Latitude of 7 degrees 39 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 42 minutes West; Port St. Augustine bore South 10 degrees West, distant 15 Leagues.
* Drain.
* Drain.
Friday
Friday, 31st, August 1770
Off Cape Walsche, New Guinea.
Between 12 and 1 in the P.M. Steer'd North-North-West, in which time we Shoalded our Water from 8 to 5 1/2, which I thought was little enough, and therefore keept away again West, and soon depen'd it to 7 fathoms, which depth we keept until 6, having the land just in sight from the Deck. At this time the Western Extream bore North, distant about 4 Leagues, and Seem'd to end in a point and turn away to the Northward; we took it to be Point St. Augustine or Walsche Caep, Latitude 8 degrees 24 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 55 minutes West.* We now shortned sail and hauld off South-South-West and South by West, having the wind at South-East and South-East by East, a Gentle breeze; we stood off 16 Miles, having from 7 to 27 fathoms, deepning gradually as we run off. At midnight we Tacked and stood in until daylight, at which time we could see no land, and yet we had only 5 1/2 fathoms. We now Steer'd North-West, having the same deepth of Water until near 9 o'Clock, when we began to Depen our Water to 6 1/2 and 7 fathoms. By this I thought that we were far Enough to the Westward of the Cape, and might haul to the Northward with Safety, which we now did, having the Wind at North-East by East, a light breeze. By Noon we had increased our Water to 9 fathoms, and were by Observation in the Latitude of 8 degrees 10 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log; by which I conjectur'd that we had meet with a strong Current setting round the Cape, not only to the Northward, but to the Westward also, otherwise we ought to have seen the Land, which we did not.
* This position is correct. Mr. Green had been assiduously observing lunars, and it appears strange that the error of the position of the north point of Australia was not discovered; but doubtless the discrepancy was put down to current.
Between 12 and 1 in the P.M. Steer'd North-North-West, in which time we Shoalded our Water from 8 to 5 1/2, which I thought was little enough, and therefore keept away again West, and soon depen'd it to 7 fathoms, which depth we keept until 6, having the land just in sight from the Deck. At this time the Western Extream bore North, distant about 4 Leagues, and Seem'd to end in a point and turn away to the Northward; we took it to be Point St. Augustine or Walsche Caep, Latitude 8 degrees 24 minutes South, Longitude 222 degrees 55 minutes West.* We now shortned sail and hauld off South-South-West and South by West, having the wind at South-East and South-East by East, a Gentle breeze; we stood off 16 Miles, having from 7 to 27 fathoms, deepning gradually as we run off. At midnight we Tacked and stood in until daylight, at which time we could see no land, and yet we had only 5 1/2 fathoms. We now Steer'd North-West, having the same deepth of Water until near 9 o'Clock, when we began to Depen our Water to 6 1/2 and 7 fathoms. By this I thought that we were far Enough to the Westward of the Cape, and might haul to the Northward with Safety, which we now did, having the Wind at North-East by East, a light breeze. By Noon we had increased our Water to 9 fathoms, and were by Observation in the Latitude of 8 degrees 10 minutes South, which was 10 Miles to the Northward of that given by the Log; by which I conjectur'd that we had meet with a strong Current setting round the Cape, not only to the Northward, but to the Westward also, otherwise we ought to have seen the Land, which we did not.
* This position is correct. Mr. Green had been assiduously observing lunars, and it appears strange that the error of the position of the north point of Australia was not discovered; but doubtless the discrepancy was put down to current.
Thursday
Historical Notes, East Coast of Australia
HISTORICAL NOTES ON THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA.
PREVIOUS to Cook's visit no European, so far as is known, had ever sighted the East Coast of Australia, or, as it was then called, New Holland. The Dutch had examined and mapped the shores from the Gulf of Carpentaria on the north round by the west to Van Dieman's Land or Tasmania, but had not decided whether the latter was a part of the mainland or no. Dampier, in 1699, had the intention of passing south to explore the unknown eastern shore, but never carried it out, confining his attention to the northern part of the west coast, with which, and with good reason, he was not favourably impressed.
On all maps of the time, the east coast, from Tasmania to the north, was shown as a dotted and more or less straight line, Tasmania being joined at the south, and generally New Guinea at the north.
There is indeed one manuscript known as the Dauphin's Map, a copy of which is in the British Museum, of the date of about 1540, which shows a certain amount of the north-east coast, and has been thought by some to prove that some one had visited it. But an inspection of it shows that it is far more probably a case of imaginative coast drawing, such as occurs in other places in the same map, and in many others of the same and later dates, and there is certainly no record of any voyage to this coast.
After Cook's exploration it remained unvisited until 1788, when, owing mainly to Banks' influence, Botany Bay was pitched upon as a convict settlement, and a squadron, consisting of H.M.S. Sirius, the Supply brig, 3 storeships, and 6 transports, under the command of Captain Arthur Phillip, R.N., which had sailed from England on May 13th, 1787, arrived in that bay on January 18th, 1788, but immediately moved into Port Jackson, where the settlement of Sydney was formed.
The early history of the Colony was one of struggle and starvation, and it was many years before any prosperity was attained. In 1839 the deportation of convicts ceased, but it was not until 1851, when gold was found, that free settlers in any large number came to the Colony.
Queensland, formerly the northern part of New South Wales, was formed a separate Colony in 1859.
A white population of about 1,500,000 now inhabits the eastern part of Australia, first explored by Cook, and their numbers are rapidly increasing.
Although the products of the Colonies are mainly agricultural and mineral, a very large proportion of this population are in the large towns.
Sydney contains 230,000, Newcastle 20,000, Brisbane 55,000, Rockhampton 13,000.
Wool, one of the staple products, is obtained from some 80,000,000 sheep, which, as Cook foresaw, have thriven well; and with 8,000,000 head of cattle supply another export in the shape of frozen meat. Coal and other minerals employ a large number of people, and the total value of exports amounts to about 24,000,000 pounds.
The uninhabited shores and untracked seas of Cook's time, only 120 years ago, are thus now teeming with life and trade; and it is no wonder that the name of the great explorer is more venerated, and the memory of his deeds is more fresh, in the Colonies than in the Mother country that sent him forth to find new fields for British enterprise.
PREVIOUS to Cook's visit no European, so far as is known, had ever sighted the East Coast of Australia, or, as it was then called, New Holland. The Dutch had examined and mapped the shores from the Gulf of Carpentaria on the north round by the west to Van Dieman's Land or Tasmania, but had not decided whether the latter was a part of the mainland or no. Dampier, in 1699, had the intention of passing south to explore the unknown eastern shore, but never carried it out, confining his attention to the northern part of the west coast, with which, and with good reason, he was not favourably impressed.
On all maps of the time, the east coast, from Tasmania to the north, was shown as a dotted and more or less straight line, Tasmania being joined at the south, and generally New Guinea at the north.
There is indeed one manuscript known as the Dauphin's Map, a copy of which is in the British Museum, of the date of about 1540, which shows a certain amount of the north-east coast, and has been thought by some to prove that some one had visited it. But an inspection of it shows that it is far more probably a case of imaginative coast drawing, such as occurs in other places in the same map, and in many others of the same and later dates, and there is certainly no record of any voyage to this coast.
After Cook's exploration it remained unvisited until 1788, when, owing mainly to Banks' influence, Botany Bay was pitched upon as a convict settlement, and a squadron, consisting of H.M.S. Sirius, the Supply brig, 3 storeships, and 6 transports, under the command of Captain Arthur Phillip, R.N., which had sailed from England on May 13th, 1787, arrived in that bay on January 18th, 1788, but immediately moved into Port Jackson, where the settlement of Sydney was formed.
The early history of the Colony was one of struggle and starvation, and it was many years before any prosperity was attained. In 1839 the deportation of convicts ceased, but it was not until 1851, when gold was found, that free settlers in any large number came to the Colony.
Queensland, formerly the northern part of New South Wales, was formed a separate Colony in 1859.
A white population of about 1,500,000 now inhabits the eastern part of Australia, first explored by Cook, and their numbers are rapidly increasing.
Although the products of the Colonies are mainly agricultural and mineral, a very large proportion of this population are in the large towns.
Sydney contains 230,000, Newcastle 20,000, Brisbane 55,000, Rockhampton 13,000.
Wool, one of the staple products, is obtained from some 80,000,000 sheep, which, as Cook foresaw, have thriven well; and with 8,000,000 head of cattle supply another export in the shape of frozen meat. Coal and other minerals employ a large number of people, and the total value of exports amounts to about 24,000,000 pounds.
The uninhabited shores and untracked seas of Cook's time, only 120 years ago, are thus now teeming with life and trade; and it is no wonder that the name of the great explorer is more venerated, and the memory of his deeds is more fresh, in the Colonies than in the Mother country that sent him forth to find new fields for British enterprise.
Currents and Tides upon the Coast
I shall conclude the account of this Country with a few observations on
the Currents and Tides upon the Coast, because I have mentioned in the
Course of this Journal that the latter hath sometimes set one way and
sometimes another, which I shall Endeavour to account for in the best
manner I can. From the Latitude of 32 degrees, or above downwards to
Sandy Cape in the Latitude of 24 degrees 46 minutes, we constantly found
a Current setting to the Southward at the rate of 10 or 15 Miles per
Day, more or less, according to the distance we were from the land, for
it runs stronger in shore than in the Offing. All this time I had not
been able to satisfy myself whether the flood-tide came from the
Southward, Eastward, or Northward, but judged it to come from the
South-East; but the first time we anchor'd upon the coast, which was in
the Latitude of 24 degrees 30 minutes, and about 10 Leagues to the
South-East of Bustard Bay, we found there the flood to come from the
North-West. On the Contrary, 30 Leagues further to the North-West, on
the South side of Keppel Bay, we found the Flood to come from the East,
and at the Northern part of the said Bay we found it come from the
Northward, but with a much Slower Motion than the Easterly Tide. Again,
on the East side of the Bay of Inlets we found the flood to set strong
to the Westward as far as the Op'ning of Broad sound, but on the North
side of that sound the flood come with a Slow motion from the
North-West; and when at Anchor before Repulse bay we found the flood to
come from the northward. We need only admit the flood tide to come from
the East or South-East, and then all these seeming Contradictions will
be found to be conformable to reason and experience. It is well known
that where there are deep Inlets, large Creeks, etc., into low lands,
that it is not occasioned by fresh water Rivers; there is a very great
indraught of the Flood Tide, the direction of which will be determin'd
according to the possition or direction of the Coast which forms the
Entrance into such Inlets; and this direction the Tide must follow, let
it be ever so contrary to their general Course out at Sea, and where the
Tides are weak, as they are in general upon this Coast, a large Inlet
will, if I may so call it, attract the Flood tide for many Leagues. Any
one need only cast an Eye over the Chart to be made sencible of what I
have advanced. To the Northward of Whitsundays Passage there are few or
no large Inlets, and consequently the Flood sets to the Northward or
North-West, according to the direction of the Coast, and Ebb the
Contrary; but this is to be understood at a little distance from land,
or where there is no Creeks or Inlets, for where such are, be they ever
so small, they draw the flood from the Southward, Eastward, and
Northward, and, as I found by experience, while we lay in Endeavour
River.* Another thing I have observed upon the Tides which ought to be
remarked, which is that there is only one high Tide in 24 Hours, and
that is the night Tide. On the Spring Tides the difference between the
perpendicular rise of the night and day Tides is not less than 3 feet,
which is a great deal where the Tides are so inconsiderable, as they are
here.**This inequality of the Tide I did not observe till we run ashore;
perhaps it is much more so to the Northward than to the Southward.
After we had got within the Reefs the second time we found the Tides
more considerable than at any time before, except in the Bay of Inlets.
It may be owing to the water being confin'd in Channels between the
Shoals, but the flood always set to the North-West to the extremity of
New Wales, from thence West and South-West into the India Seas.
* Cook's reasoning on the course of the flood stream is quite sound.
** This difference in the heights of consecutive tides is termed the diurnal inequality. It results from the tide wave being made up of a large number of undulations, some caused by the moon, some by the sun; some occurring twice a day, others only once. It occurs in all parts of the world, but is inconspicuous on the coasts of Europe. In Australia it is very marked, and occasions the night tides to be the highest at one time of the year, when the Endeavour was on the coast, and the day tides at the other. There are places on the east coast of Australia where the range of the tide is very great, but Cook did not anchor at any of them.
* Cook's reasoning on the course of the flood stream is quite sound.
** This difference in the heights of consecutive tides is termed the diurnal inequality. It results from the tide wave being made up of a large number of undulations, some caused by the moon, some by the sun; some occurring twice a day, others only once. It occurs in all parts of the world, but is inconspicuous on the coasts of Europe. In Australia it is very marked, and occasions the night tides to be the highest at one time of the year, when the Endeavour was on the coast, and the day tides at the other. There are places on the east coast of Australia where the range of the tide is very great, but Cook did not anchor at any of them.
Australian Natives Part 2
From what I have said of the Natives of New Holland they may appear to some to be the most wretched People upon Earth; but in reality they are far more happier than we Europeans, being wholy unacquainted not only with the Superfluous, but with the necessary Conveniences so much sought after in Europe; they are happy in not knowing the use of them. They live in a Tranquility which is not disturbed by the Inequality of Condition. The earth and Sea of their own accord furnishes them with all things necessary for Life. They covet not Magnificient Houses, Household-stuff, etc.; they live in a Warm and fine Climate, and enjoy every wholesome Air, so that they have very little need of Cloathing; and this they seem to be fully sencible of, for many to whom we gave Cloth, etc., left it carelessly upon the Sea beach and in the Woods, as a thing they had no manner of use for; in short, they seem'd to set no Value upon anything we gave them, nor would they ever part with anything of their own for any one Article we could offer them. This, in my opinion, Argues that they think themselves provided with all the necessarys of Life, and that they have no Superfluities.*
* The native Australians may be happy in their condition, but they are without doubt among the lowest of mankind. Confirmed cannibals, they lose no opportunity of gratifying their love of human flesh. Mothers will kill and eat their own children, and the women again are often mercilessly illtreated by their lords and masters. There are no chiefs, and the land is divided into sections, occupied by families, who consider everything in their district as their own. Internecine war exists between the different tribes, which are very small. Their treachery, which is unsurpassed, is simply an outcome of their savage ideas, and in their eyes is a form of independence which resents any intrusion on THEIR land, THEIR wild animals, and THEIR rights generally. In their untutored state they therefore consider that any method of getting rid of the invader is proper. Both sexes, as Cook observed, are absolutely nude, and lead a wandering life, with no fixed abode, subsisting on roots, fruits, and such living things as they can catch. Nevertheless, although treated by the coarser order of colonists as wild beasts to be extirpated, those who have studied them have formed favourable opinions of their intelligence. The more savage side of their disposition being, however, so very apparent, it is not astonishing that, brought into contact with white settlers, who equally consider that they have a right to settle, the aborigines are rapidly disappearing.
Language
It is very probable that they are a different people, and speak a different Language. For the advantage of such as want to Clear up this point I shall add a small Vocabulary of a few Words in the New Holland Language which we learnt when in Endeavour River.*
* The languages of the different tribes differ very much. This results from the continual state of war in which they live, as they have no communication the one with the other.
COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. COLUMN 2: NEW HOLLAND.
The Head : Whageegee.
The Hair of the head : Morye or More.
The Eyes : Meul.
The Ears : Melea.
The Lips : Yembe or Jembi.
The Teeth : Mulere or Moile.
The Chinn : Jaeal.
The Beard : Waller.
The Tongue : Unjar.
The Nose : Bonjoo.
The Naval : Toolpoor or Julpur.
The Penis : Keveil or Kerrial.
The Scrotum : Coonal or Kunnol.
The Arms : Aw or Awl.
The Hand : Marigal.
The Thumb : Eboorbalga.
The Fore, Middle and Ring fingers : Egalbaiga.
Little Finger : Nakil or Eboonakil.
The Thighs : Coman.
The Knees : Ponga.
The Legs : Peegoorgo.
The Feet : Edamal.
The Nails : Kolke or Kulke.
A Stone : Walba.
Sand : Joo'wal, Yowall, or Joralba.
A Rope or Line : Goorgo or Gurka.
Fire : Maianang or Meanang.
The Sun : Galan or Gallan.
The Sky : Kere or Kearre.
A Father : Dunjo.
A Son : Jumurre.
A Man : Bamma or Ba ma.
A Dog : Cotta or Kota.
A Lorryquet : Perpere or Pier-pier.
A Cocatoo : Wanda.
Male Turtle : Poonja or Poinja.
Female : Mamingo.
A great Cockle : Moenjo or Moingo.
Cocos Yams : Maracotu (?).
A Canoe : Maragan.
* The languages of the different tribes differ very much. This results from the continual state of war in which they live, as they have no communication the one with the other.
COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. COLUMN 2: NEW HOLLAND.
The Head : Whageegee.
The Hair of the head : Morye or More.
The Eyes : Meul.
The Ears : Melea.
The Lips : Yembe or Jembi.
The Teeth : Mulere or Moile.
The Chinn : Jaeal.
The Beard : Waller.
The Tongue : Unjar.
The Nose : Bonjoo.
The Naval : Toolpoor or Julpur.
The Penis : Keveil or Kerrial.
The Scrotum : Coonal or Kunnol.
The Arms : Aw or Awl.
The Hand : Marigal.
The Thumb : Eboorbalga.
The Fore, Middle and Ring fingers : Egalbaiga.
Little Finger : Nakil or Eboonakil.
The Thighs : Coman.
The Knees : Ponga.
The Legs : Peegoorgo.
The Feet : Edamal.
The Nails : Kolke or Kulke.
A Stone : Walba.
Sand : Joo'wal, Yowall, or Joralba.
A Rope or Line : Goorgo or Gurka.
Fire : Maianang or Meanang.
The Sun : Galan or Gallan.
The Sky : Kere or Kearre.
A Father : Dunjo.
A Son : Jumurre.
A Man : Bamma or Ba ma.
A Dog : Cotta or Kota.
A Lorryquet : Perpere or Pier-pier.
A Cocatoo : Wanda.
Male Turtle : Poonja or Poinja.
Female : Mamingo.
A great Cockle : Moenjo or Moingo.
Cocos Yams : Maracotu (?).
A Canoe : Maragan.
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