Wednesday, 31st May 1769

Late this Evening the Carpenters finished the Long boat.

Tuesday, 30th May 1769

We are now very buisey in preparing our Instruments, etc., for the Observations, and Instructing such Gentlemen in the use of them, as I intend to send to other parts to observe, for fear we should fail here.

Sunday, 28th May 1769

Winds Southerly and clear weather. This morning myself, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander set out in the Pinnace to pay Tootaha a Visit, who had moved from Apparra to the South-West part of the island. What induced us to make him this visit was a Message we had received from him some days ago importing that if we would go to him he would give us several Hogs. We had no great faith in this, yet we were resolved to try, and set out accordingly. It was Night before we reached the place where he was, and, as we had left the Boat about half-way behind us, we were obliged to take up our Quarters with him for the Night. The Chief received us in a Friendly manner, and a Pig was ordered to be killed and dressed for Supper; but we saved his Life for the present, thinking it would do us more service in another place, and we supped on Fruit and what else we could get. Here was, along with the Chief, Obariea and many more that we knowd. They all seem'd to be travellers like ourselves, for neither the Canoes they had along with them, nor the Houses where they were, were sufficient to contain the one half of them. We were in all Six of us, and after supper began to look out for Lodgings. Mr. Banks went to one place, Dr. Solander to another, while I and the other 3 went to a third. We all of us took as much care of the little we had about us as possible, knowing very well what sort of People we were among; yet, notwithstanding all the care we took, before 12 o'clock the most of us had lost something or other. For my own part I had my Stockings taken from under my head, and yet I am certain that I was not a Sleep the whole time. Obariea took charge of Mr. Banks's things, and yet they were stol'n from her, as she pretended. Tootaha was acquainted with what had hapned, I believe by Obariea herself, and both him and her made some stir about it; but this was all meer shew, and ended in nothing. A little time after this Tootaha came to the Hutt where I and those that were with me lay, and entertain'd us with a Consort of Musick consisting of 3 Drums, 4 Flutes, and Singing. This lasted about an Hour, and then they retir'd. The Music and Singing was so much of a piece that I was very glad when it was over. We stay'd with them till near noon the next day in hopes of getting some of our things again, and likewise some Hogs; but we were at last obliged to come away with the one we had saved out of the Fire last Night, and a promise from Tootaha that he would come to the Ship in a Day or two with more, and bring with him the things that are lost, a promise we had no reason to expect he would fulfill. Thus ended our Visit, and we got to the Fort late in the evening.

Saturday, 27th May 1769

Winds variable and fair weather.

Friday, 26th May 1769

Some flying showers again. This morning we hauled the pinnace a Shore to examine her bottom, and had the Satisfaction to find that not one worm had touched it, notwithstanding she hath been in the water nearly as long as the Long Boat. This must be owing to the White Lead with which her bottom is painted, the Long boats being paid with Varnish of Pine, for no other reason can be assign'd why the one should be preserved and the other destroy'd, when they are both built on the Same sort of Wood and have been in equal use. From this Circumstance alone the Bottom of all Boats sent into Countrys where these worms are ought to be painted with White Lead, and the Ships supply'd with a good stock in order to give them a New Coat whenever it's necessary. By this means they would be preserved free from these destructive Vermin. The Long boat's Bottom being so much destroy'd appear'd a little extraordinary, as the Dolphin's Launch was in the Water at this very place full as long, and no such thing happened to her, as the Officers that were in the Dolphin say.

Wednesday, 24th May 1769

Fine clear weather all this day. Having found the Long boat Leakey for these few days past, we hauld her ashore to-day to stop the leakes, when, to our great surprise, we found her bottom so much Eaten by the Worms that it was necessary to give her a new one, and all the Carpenters were immediately set to work upon her.

Tuesday, 23rd May 1769

Wind Southerly and fair weather in the Forenoon, but in the Afternoon Showers. We have had a Scarcity of all sorts of Fruit for these 2 days past, which we immagine to be owing to the Wet weather.

Monday, 22nd May 1769

which was usher'd in with thick Cloudy weather, and Excessive hard Showers of rain and very much Thunder and Lightning, which Continued the Greater part of the day.

Tuesday, 16th May 1769

Winds Westerly. The morning cloudy, with heavy showers of rain; the Remainder of the day fair weather. From this day nothing remarkable hapned until

Monday, 15th May 1769

Winds variable and cloudy weather. Last Night one of our Water Casks was taken away from the outside of the Fort, where they stood full of water. In the morning there was not one of the Natives but what knew it was gone; yet, Contrary to what we had always met with on these Occasions, not one of them would give us any information about it, and I thought it of too little Consequence to take any methods to Oblige them. In the evening Toobouratomida and his Wife, and a Man belonging to Tootaha, would needs lay all Night by the Casks to prevent any more from being taken away; but, as we had placed a Centinel there, this care of theirs became unnecessary, and they were prevailed upon to go home; but before they went away they made signs to the Centinel to keep his Eyes open. From this it should seem that they knew that an attempt would be made in the night to take away more, which would have been done had not the Centinel prevented it

Friday, 12th May 1769

Cloudy weather with Showers of rain. This morning a Man and 2 Young Women, with some others, came to the Fort, whom we had not seen before, and as their manner of introducing themselves was a little uncommon, I shall insert it. Mr. Banks was as usual at the gate of the Fort trading with the people, when he was told that some Strangers were coming, and therefore stood to receive them. The Company had with them about a Dozen young Plantain Trees, and some other small Plants, these they laid down about 20 feet from Mr. Banks; the people then made a Lane between him and them. When this was done the Man (who appeared to be only a Servant to the two Women) brought the young Plantains singly, together with some of the other plants, and gave them to Mr. Banks, and at the delivery of each pronounced a Short sentence which we understood not. After he had thus disposed of all his plantain trees, he took several pieces of Cloth and spread them on the ground. One of the Young women then stepp'd upon the Cloth, and with as much innocency as one could possibly conceive, exposed herself, entirely naked, from the waist downwards; in this manner she turn'd herself once or twice round, I am not certain which, then stepped off the cloth, and dropp'd down her Cloaths. More Cloth was then spread upon the former, and she again performed the same Ceremony. The Cloth was then rowled up and given to Mr. Banks, and the two Young women went and Embraced him, which ended the Ceremony.

Sunday, 14th May 1769

This day we performed divine Service in one of the Tents in the fort, where several of the Natives attended and behaved with great decency the whole time. This day closed with an odd sceen at the Gate of the Fort, where a young Fellow above 6 feet high made love to a little Girl about 10 or 12 years of Age publickly before several of our people and a number of the Natives. What makes me mention this is because it appear'd to be done according to Custom, for there were several women present, particularly Obariea and several others of the better sort, and these were so far from showing the least disapprobation that they instructed the Girl how she should Act her part, who, young as she was, did not seem to want it.

Saturday, 13th May 1769

Nothing worthy of Note hapned during the day; in the Night one of the Natives attempted to get into the Fort by Climbing over the Wall, but, being discovered by the Centinel, he made off. The Iron and Iron Tools daily in use at the Armourer's Forge are Temptations that these people cannot possibly withstand.

Tuesday, 9th; Wednesday, 10th; Thursday, 11th May 1769

Tuesday, 9th; Wednesday, 10th; Thursday, 11th. Nothing remarkable hapned for these three days. Oberiea, the Dolphin's queen, made us a Visit for the first time since the Quadrant was Stolen. She introduced herself with a Small Pig, for which she had a Hatchet, and as soon as she got it she Lugg'd out a Broken Axe, and several pieces of Old Iron. These, I believe, she must have had from the Dolphin; the Axe she wanted to be mended, and Axes made of the old iron. I obliged her in the first, but excused myself in the latter: since the Natives had seen the Forge at work they have frequently brought pieces of Iron to be made into one sort of Tool or other, which hath generally been done whenever it did not hinder our own work--being willing to Oblige them in everything in my power. These Pieces of old Iron the Natives must have got from the Dolphin, as we know of no other Ship being here;* and very probable some from us, for there is no species of Theft they will not commit to get this Article, and I may say the same of the common Seamen when in these parts.

* M. de Bougainville, in the French ships La Boudeuse and L'Etoile, had visited Tahiti the year before, after its discovery by the Dolphin. He was unfortunate in his choice of anchorage, and his ships lost anchors and got into various difficulties. The crews were also much afflicted with scurvy.

Monday, 8th May 1769

Early this morning the Master went to the Eastward in the Pinnace to try if he could procure some Hogs and Fowls from that Quarter; but he return'd in the evening without success. He saw but very few, and those the inhabitants pretended belonged to Tootaha; so great is this man's influence or authority over them that they dare part with nothing without his Consent, or otherwise they use his Name to Excuse themselves from parting with the few they have, for it is very certain these things are in no great plenty with them.

Saturday, 6th; Sunday, 7th May 1769

Saturday, 6th; Sunday, 7th. Nothing remarkable, only that the Natives supply us with as much bread fruits and Cocoa Nuts as we can destroy.

Friday, 5th May 1769

Early this morning Tootaha sent some of his people to put us in mind of our promise, and these seem'd very uneasy until we set out, which Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself did about 10 o'clock in the Pinnace, having one of these men with us. As soon as we came to Appara, the place where Tootaha resided, we saw a great number of People at the landing place near his House; one among them, who had a large Turban about his Head, and a long white stick in his Hand, drove the others from the landing place by beating them with his Stick, and throwing stones at them, and at the same time directed us whereabouts to land. After we had landed he conducted us to the Chief, but in this there was no order, everyone crowded upon us crying out "Tyo Tootaha," this Tootaha was our Friend. We found the chief setting in the shade under a large Tree, with a Circle of old men round him; he made us set down by him, and immediately asked for the Axe. I then gave him one, together with an upper Garment made of Broad Cloth after their Fashion, and a Shirt. The Garment he put on, but the Shirt he gave to the man who first received us at landing, who was now seated by us, and the Chief seemed desirous that we should take particular notice of him. By that Time Obaria, and several other women whom we knew, came and sat down by us. Tootaha did not stay long before he went away, as we thought to show himself to the people in his new Dress. He was not gone long before he return'd and took his seat again for a few minutes, then went away again, as we was told, to order something to be got for us to Eat, and at this time we gladly would have gone too, being almost Suffocated with the Crowd that was about us. However, here we remained for about 10 Minutes longer, when word was brought us that the Chief wanted us. We were then conducted to our own Boat, where we found him setting alone under the Awning. He made signs to us to come to him, which we did, and as many with us as the Boat would hold. Here he ordered some Bread fruit and Cocoa Nut to be brought, of both of which we tasted.

After we had set here sometime, a Message was brought to the Chief, who immediately went out of the Boat, and we was desired to follow, and was conducted to a large Aria or Court Yard on one side of his House, where we were entertained with Public wrestling. Tootaha seated himself at one end of the place, and several of his Principal men sat round him in a Semicircle. We were desir'd to sit down here likewise, but we rather chose to walk about. Everything being now ready, several men entered the Theater, 8, 10, or 12, sometimes more. These walked about in a Stooping Poster, with their left hand upon their right breast, and with their Right hand Open struck with a smack their left Arm and fore-arm. In this manner they walked about until one Challenged another, which was done by motion and jesture, without speaking one word. The 2 Antagonists would then meet and endeavour to seize each other by the thighs, but if that fail'd they would seize each other by the Hair of the Head or wherever they could, and then Wrestle together until by main Strength the one or the other was thrown on his back. This was always (Except once) followed by three Huzzas from some old men who sat in the House, and at the same time another Company of men would dance for about a Minute, the Wrestlers all the time continuing their game without taking the least notice of anything else. The only dexterity the Wrestlers seemed to make use of was in first seizing each other, for after they had closed it was all decided by Main strength. It would sometimes happen that neither the one nor the other could throw his Antagonist; in this Case they would either part by mutual consent or were parted by others. The Conqueror never exulted over the Conquer'd, neither did the Conquer'd ever repine at his ill luck, but the whole was carried on with great good Humour. There were present, Young and old, near 500 People. The women do not seem to partake of this diversion, only some few of the Principal ones were present, and that appeared to be owing to us being there.

After this was over we were given to understand that we were to go to Dinner, and were desired to follow Tootaha, who led us into our own Boat, and soon after came a small Pig ready roasted, with some Bread Fruit and Cocoa Nuts. Here we thought we were to have dined, but Tootaha, after waiting about 10 Minutes, made signs to us to put off the Boat and go a Board, which we did, and bring him and Toobouratomida along with us. As soon as we got on board we all dined on the Cheer the Chief had provided. We soon found the good effects of having made friends with this man, for it was no sooner known to the Natives that he was on board the Ship than they brought Bread Fruit, Cocoa Nuts, etc., to the Fort.

Thursday, 4th May 1769

Some people came to the Fort to-day from York Island; one of them gave us an account of 22 Islands lying in this Neighbourhood. Set up the 2 Clocks; one in the Tent wherein Mr. Green and I lay, and the other in the Observatory. This evening Tootaha sent a man again for the Axe and Shirt, and we sent him word by the same man that Mr. Banks and I would come and see him to-morrow and bring them along with us, for it now became necessary that we should take some steps to reconcile this man to us in order to procure a sufficient supply of Bread fruit, and Cocoa Nuts, which we have not had for these 2 days past, owing, as we
apprehend, to Tootaha not being reconciled to us, or otherwise the people take this method to shew their resentment of the Treatment their Chief meet with.

Wednesday, 3rd May 1769

Very early this morning Tootaha sent for the Canoe we had detained yesterday, and in the Afternoon sent a man for an Axe and a Shirt in return for the Hogs he gave us last night; but as this man told us that Tootaha would not come near us himself in less than 10 days, we thought proper not to send them, to try if he would not come himself for them sooner.

Tuesday, 2nd May 1769

This morning, about 9 o'Clock, when Mr. Green and I went to set up the Quadrant, it was not to be found. It had never been taken out of the Packing Case (which was about 18 Inches square) since it came from
Mr. Bird, the Maker; and the whole was pretty heavy, so that it was a matter of Astonishment to us all how it could be taken away, as a Centinal stood the whole night within 5 Yards of the door of the Tent, where it was put, together with several other Instruments; but none of them was missing but this. However, it was not long before we got information that one of the Natives had taken it away and carried it to the Eastward. Immediately a resolution was taken to detain all the large Canoes that were in the Bay, and to seize upon Tootaha and some others of the principal people, and keep them in Custody until the Quadrant was produced; but this last we did not think proper immediately to put in Execution, as we had only Oberiea in our power, and the detaining of her by force would have alarm'd all the rest. In the meantime, Mr. Banks (who is always very alert upon all occasions wherein the Natives are concern'd) and Mr. Green went into the Woods to enquire of Toobouratomita which way and where the Quadrant was gone. I very soon was inform'd that these 3 was gone to the Eastward in quest of it, and some time after I followed myself with a small party of Men; but before I went away I gave orders that if Tootaha came either to the Ship or the Fort he was not to be detain'd, for I found he had no hand in taking away the Quadrant, and that there was almost a Certainty of getting it again. I met Mr. Banks and Mr. Green about 4 miles from the Fort, returning with the Quadrant. This was about Sun set, and we all got back to the Fort about 8 o'Clock, where I found Tootaha in Custody, and a number of the Natives crowding about the Gate of the Fort. My going into the Woods with a party of Arm'd men so alarmed the Natives that in the evening they began to move off with their Effects, and a Double Canoe putting off from the Bottom of the Bay was ohserv'd by the Ship, and a Boat sent after her. In this Canoe hapned to be Tootaha, and as soon as our Boat came up with her, he and all the people that were in the Canoe jump'd overboard, and he only was taken up and brought on board the Ship, together with the Canoe; the rest were permitted to swim to the Shore. From the Ship Tootaha was sent to the Fort, where Mr. Hicks thought proper to detain him until I return'd. The Scene between Toobouratomita and Tootaha, when the former came into the Fort and found the latter in Custody, was really moving. They wept over each other for some time. As for Tootaha, he was so far prepossessed with the thought that he was to be kill'd that he could not be made sencible to the Contrary till he was carried out of the Fort to the people, many of whom Expressed their joy by embracing him; and, after all, he would not go away until he had given us two Hogs, notwithstanding we did all in our power to hinder him, for it is very certain that the Treatment he had meet with from us did not merit such a reward. However, we had it in our power to make him a present of equal value whenever we pleased.

Monday, 1st May 1769

This morning Tootaha came on board the Ship, and was very Desireous of seeing into every Chest and Drawer that was in the Cabin. I satisfied his curiosity so far as to open most of those that belong'd to me. He saw several things that he took a fancy to, and collected them together; but at last he Cast his eyes upon the Adze I had from Mr. Stephens* that was made in imitation of one of their Stone Adzes or Axes.** The Moment he lays his hands upon it he of his own accord put away everything he had got before, and ask'd me if I would give him that, which I very readily did, and he went away without asking for any one thing more, which I by experience knew was a sure sign that he was well pleased with what he had got.

This day one of the Natives, who appeared to be a Chief, dined with us, as he had done some days before; but then there were always some Women present, and one or another of them put the Victuals into his Mouth, but this day there hapned to be none to Perform that Office. When he was help'd to victuals and desir'd to eat, he sat in the Chair like a Statute, without once attempting to put a Morsel to his mouth, and would certainly have gone without his dinner if one of the Servants had not fed him. We have often found the women very officious in feeding us, from which it would seem that it is the Custom on some occasions for them to feed the Chiefs. However, this is the only instance of that kind we have
seen, or that they could not help themselves as well as any of us.

This afternoon we set up the Observatory and took the Astronomical Quadrant ashore for the first time, together with some other Instruments, the fort being now finished and made as Tenantable as the time, Nature, and situation of the Ground and Materials we had to work upon would admit of. The North and South parts consisted of a Bank of Earth 4 1/2 feet high on the inside, and a Ditch without, 10 feet broad and 6 feet deep; on the West side facing the Bay a Bank of Earth 4 feet high, and Palisades upon that, but no Ditch, the works being at high-water mark. On the East side upon the Bank of the river was placed a double row of Casks, and, as this was the weakest side, the 2 four Pounders were planted there, and the whole was defended, beside these 2 Guns, with 6 Swivels, and generally about 45 Men with small Arms, including the Officers and Gentlemen who resided ashore. I now thought myself perfectly secure from anything these people would attempt.

* The Secretary of the Admiralty.
** The stone adzes of Tahiti were of excellent workmanship.