Thursday, 29th June 1769

Squally weather with Showers of rain. This morning we left Tiaraboo and entered upon that of Opooreonoo, the North-West district of the Island. The first thing we met with worthy of note was at one of their Mories, where lay the scull bones of 26 Hogs and 6 Dogs. These all lay near to and under one of their Altars. These Animals must have been offer'd as a Sacrifice to their Gods either all at once or at different times, but on what account we could not learn. The next day we met with an Effigy or Figure of a Man made of Basket work and covered with white and Black feathers placed in such order as to represent the Colour of their Hair and Skins when Tattow'd or painted. It was 7 1/2 feet high and the whole made in due proportion; on its head were 4 Nobs not unlike the stumps of Large Horns--3 stood in front and one behind. We were not able to learn what use they made of this Monster; it did not at all appear to us that they paid it the least Homage as a God: they were not the least Scrupulous of letting us examine every part of it. I am inclinable to think that it is only used by way of diversion at their Hevas or public entertainments, as Punch is in a Puppet show.* We next passed through a Harbour, which is the only one on the south side of Opooreonoo fit for Shipping. It is situated about 5 Miles to the Westward of the Isthmus between 2 Small Islands that lay near the shore and a Mile from each other. In this Harbour is 11 and 12 fathoms of water and good Anchorage. About a League and a half to the Westward of this Harbour is the Morie of Oamo or Oberia, for some told us it belong'd to the one and some to the other; it far Exceeds every thing of this Kind upon the whole Island. It is a long square of Stonework built Pyramidically; its base is 267 feet by 87 feet; at the Top it is 250 feet by 8 feet. It is built in the same manner as we do steps leading up to a Sun Dial or fountain erected in the Middle of a Square where there is a flite of steps on each side. In this building there are 11 of such steps; each step is about 4 feet in height and the breadth 4 feet 7 inches, but they decreased both in height and breadth from the bottom to the Top. On the middle of the Top stood the Image of a Bird carved in Wood, near it lay the broken one of a Fish carved in stone. There was no hollow or Cavity in the inside, the whole being fill'd up with stones. The outside was faced partly with hewn stones and partly with others, and these were placed in such a manner as to look very agreeable to the Eye. Some of the hewn stones were 4 feet 7 inches by 2 feet 4 inches and 15 inches thick, and had been squared and Polished with some sort of an Edge Tool. On the East side was enclosed with a stone wall a piece of ground in form of a square, 360 feet by 354, in this was growing several Cypress trees and Plantains. Round about this Morie was several smaller ones all going to decay, and on the Beach between them and the Sea lay scatter'd up and down a great quantity of human bones. Not far from the Great Morie was 2 or 3 pretty large Altars, where lay the Scull bones of some Hogs and dogs. This Monument stands on the south side of Opooreonoo, upon a low point of land about 100 Yards from the Sea.** It appeared to have been built many Years, and was in a State of decay, as most of their Mories are. From this it would seem that this Island hath been in a more Flourishing state than it is at present, or that Religious Customs are (like most other Nations) by these people less observed. We took up our Quarters near this Morie for the night, and early in the Morning proceeded on our rout, and without meeting with anything remarkable, got on board the Ship on Saturday, the 1st of July, having made the Circuit of the whole Island, which I Estimated at something more than 30 Leagues.*** The Plan or Sketch which I have drawn, altho' it cannot be very accurate, yet it will be found sufficient to point out the Situation of the different Bays and Harbours and the true figure of the Island, and I believe is without any Material error. For the first 2 or 3 days we was out upon this excursion we labour'd under some difficulty for want of Provisions--particularly bread--an Article we took but little of with us--not doubting that we should get bread fruit, more than sufficient for a Boat's Crew at every place we went to, but, on the Contrary, we found the season for that fruit wholy over, and not one to be seen on the Trees, and all other fruit and roots were scarce. The Natives live now on Sour paist--which is made from bread fruit--and some bread fruit and plantains that they get from the Mountains where the season is Later, and on a Nut not unlike a chessnut which are now in Perfection; but all these Articles are at present very scarce, and therefore it is no wonder that the Natives have not supply'd us with these things of Late. [At Tahiti.] Upon my return to the Ship I found that the Provisions had been all examined and the Water got on board, amounting to 65 Tons. I now determind to get everything off from the Shore and leave the Place as soon as possible. The getting the several Articles on board, and Scraping and paying the Ship's side, took us up the following Week without anything remarkable happening until...

* Note by Cook in Admiralty copy: "Tupia informs us that this is a representation of one of the Second rank of Eatuas or Gods, called Mauwi, who inhabited the Earth upon the Creation of man. He is represented as an immense Giant who had seven heads, and was indued with immense strength and abilities. Many absurd stories are told of his Feats by Tupia."

** On map Morai-no te Oamo.

*** A remarkably close estimate.

Tuesday, 27th June 1769

Winds Easterly and fine weather. It was late last night before we reached the Isthmus, and all the Observations I could make this morning was that it appeared to be a Marshey flatt of about 2 miles in Extent across which the Natives Haul their Canoes partly by land and partly by water. From the Isthmus the land trends East Southerly near 3 Leagues, to the South-East point of the Great Bay which lies before the Isthmus. On the west side of this point is a Bay called Ohitepepa, which is in many respects similar to Royal Bay, and is situated in every bit as fertile and populous part of the Island. There are other places formed by the Reefs that lay along the Shore between this and the Isthmus, where Shipping can lay in perfect security. The Land then trends South-East and South to the South-East part of the Island, which is near 3 Leagues, and covered all the way by a Reef of Rocks, but no Harbour. We took up our Quarters at the East part of the Island, being conducted thither by a Young Chief we had Often seen on board the Ship, and the next morning proceeded round the South-East point of the Island, part of which is not cover'd by any reef, but lies wholy open to the Sea and here the Hills rise directly from the Shore. At the Southernmost part of the Island the Shore is again cover'd by a Reef, and there forms a very good Harbour, and the land about it very fertile. At this place we saw a Goose and a Turkey left at Royal Bay by the Dolphin; they were in possession of a Chief who came along with us in the Boat, and remain'd with us the remainder of the day, and conducted us over the Shoals we here meet with; and for this piece of service we lent him a Cloak to Sleep in in the night, but we had not been laid down above 10 minutes before he thought proper to move off with it, but both Mr. Banks and I pursued him so close that he was obliged to relinquish his prize, and we saw no more of him. When we returned to our Lodging we found the House, in which were not less than 2 or 300 people when we went away, intirely deserted, so that we had one of the Largest and best houses on the Island wholy to ourselves; but when they found that we meant them no harm the Chief and his Wife with some others came and Slept by us the remainder of the night. This place is situated on the South-West side of Tiarreboo,* the South-East district of the Island, and about 5 miles South-East from the Isthmus. Here is a large, safe, and Commodious Harbour, inferior to none on the whole Island, and the land about it Rich in Produce. We found that the people of this district had had little or no communication with us, yet we was everywhere well received by them. We found all this part of the Island very fertile and the Natives numerous, and had a great many large Double Canoes built and Ornamented uniformly. They were all halled ashore, and appeared to be going to decay for want of use. Their Mories or Burial places stood generally upon these points of land that projected into the Sea, and were both better built and Ornamented than those about Royal Bay--Tootaha's excepted. In general this district appear'd to be in a more flourishing state than the other, although it is not above one fourth part as big and cannot contain nothing near the Number of inhabitants.

* Taiarapu.

Monday, 26th June 1769

Very early this morning I set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, with an intent to make the Circuit of the Island in order to Examine and draw a Sketch of the Coast and Harbours thereof. We took our rout to the Eastward, and this night reached the Isthmus, which is a low neck of Land running across the Island, which divides it into two districts or Governments wholly independent of each other as we was informed. The first thing we saw which struck our attention in this day's rout was a small Pig that had not been roasted above a Day or 2 laid upon one of their Altars near to a place where lay the Body or Bones of a Dead Person. This Pig must have been put their as an offering to their God, but on what account we know not. The Coast from Royal Bay trends East by South and East-South-East 10 miles South by East and South 11 miles to the Isthmus. In the first direction the Shore is mostly open to the Sea, but in the last it is cover'd by reefs of rocks; these forms several good Harbours, wherein are safe Anchorage for Shipping in 16, 18, 20, and 24 fathoms, with other Conveniences. It was in one of these Harbours the Spanish Ships before mentioned lay; the Natives shew'd us the place where they Pitched their Tent and the Brook they water'd at, otherways there was not the least signs of Shipping having been there.

Saturday, 24th, Sunday, 25th, June 1769

Nothing remarkable.

Friday, 23rd June 1769

This morning Emanuel Parreyra, a Portugue, was Missing, and I had some reason to think that he was gone with an intent to stay here. It was not long before I was informed that he was at Apparra with Tootaha. The Man who gave us this information was one of Tootaha's Servants. He was Offer'd a Hatchet if he would go to Apparra and bring him to us. This was perhaps the very thing he came for, for he immediately set out and return'd with the Man in the Evening. The man said in his defence that as he was going to the Boat to go on board last night, he was taken away by force by 3 Men, and upon enquiring farther into this matter I found it to be so, and that Tootaha wanted to have kept him, only that he was perswaided to the contrary, or perhaps he thought that the Hatchet he would get by returning him would do him more service than the Man.

Thursday, 22nd June 1769

This morning I released Robert Anderson from Confinement at the intercession of the Master and a promise of behaving better for the future.

Wednesday, 21st June 1769

Employed drying the Powder, or getting on board Wood, Water, etc. Confined Robert Anderson, Seaman, for refusing to obey the orders of the Mate when at work in the Hold. This morning a Chief, whose Name is Oamo, and one we had not seen before, came to the Fort. There came with him a Boy about 7 Years of Age and a Young Woman of about 18 or 20. At the Time of their coming Obariea and several others were in the fort. They went out to meet them, having first uncovered their Heads and Bodies as low as their Waists; and the same thing was done by all those that were on the outside of the Fort. As we looked upon this as a Ceremonial respect, and had not seen it paid to any one before, we thought that this Oamo must be some extraordinary person, and wondered to see so little notice taken of him after the Ceremony was over. The Young woman that came along with him could not be prevailed upon to come into the Fort, and the Boy was Carried upon a Man's back, altho' he was as able to walk as the Man who carried him. This Lead us to inquire who they were; and we was informed that the Boy was Heir Apparent to the Sovereignty of the Island, and the Young Woman was his Sister, and as such the respect was paid them which was due to no one else except the Arreedehi, which was not Tootaha, from what we could learn, but some other person who we had not seen, or like to do, for they say that he is no Friend of ours, and therefore will not come near us. The Young Boy above mentioned is son to Oamo by Obariea, but Oamo and Obariea do not at this time live together as Man and Wife, he not being able to endure with her troublesome disposition. I mention this because it shows that seperation in the Marriage state is not unknown to these people.*

* See note Notes on Tahiti below.

Tuesday, 20th June 1769

Got all the Powder ashore to Air, all of which we found in a bad Condition, and the Gunner informs me that it was very little better when it came first on board. Last Night Obariea made us a visit, whom we have not seen for some time. We were told of her coming, and that she would bring with her some of the Stol'n things, which we gave Credit to because we know'd several of them were in her possession; but we were surprised to find this Woman put herself wholy in our power, and not bring with her one Article of what we had lost. The Excuse she made was that her Gallant, a man that used to be along with her, did Steal them, and she had beat him and turned him away, but she was so Sencible of her own Guilt that she was ready to drop down through fear, and yet she had resolution Enough to insist upon Sleeping in Mr. Banks's Tent all Night, and was with difficulty prevailed upon to go to her canoe, altho no one took the least notice of her. In the morning she brought her Canoe, with everything she had, to the Gate of the Fort, after which we could not help admiring her for her Courage and the Confidence she seem'd to place in us, and thought that we could do no less than to receive her into favour, and except the Present she had brought us, which consisted of a Hog, a Dog, some Bread Fruit and Plantains.

We refused to Except of the Dog, as being an Animal we had no use for; at which she seemed a little surprised, and told us it was very good eating, and we very soon had an opportunity to find that it was so, for Mr. Banks, having bought a Basket of Fruit in which was the Thigh of a Dog ready dressed, of this several of us tasted, and found that it was Meat not to be despised, and therefore took Obariea's Dog and had him immediately dressed by some of the Natives in the following manner: They first made a hole in the Ground about a foot Deep, in which they made a fire and heated some small Stones. While this was doing the Dog was strangled and the hair got off by laying him frequently on the fire, and as clean as if it had been scalded off with hot water. His Intrails was taken out, and the whole washed Clean, and as soon as the Stones and Hole was sufficiently heated the fire was put out and part of the Stones were left in the bottom of the hole. Upon these stones were laid green leafs, and upon them the Dog, together with the Intrails, these were likewise covered with leaves, and over them hot stones; and then the hole was close cover'd with mould. After he had laid here about 4 Hours, the Oven (for so I must call it) was op'ned, and the dog taken out, whole and well done, and it was the Opinion of every one who tasted it that they never eat sweater Meat, therefore we resolved for the future never to dispise Dog's flesh. It is in this manner that the Natives dress and Bake all their Victuals that require it--Flesh, fish, and Fruit. I now gave over all thoughts of recovering any of the things the Natives had stol'n from us, and therefore intend to give them up their Canoes whenever they apply for them.

Monday, 19th June 1769

Punished James Tunley with 12 lashes for taking Rum out of the Cask on the Quarter Deck.

Sunday, 18th June 1769

Variable winds and Clear weather. This Night was observed the Moon totally Eclipsed.

Friday, 16th; Saturday, 17th June 1769

Variable winds, with Showers of rain and Cloudy weather.

Thursday, 15th June 1769

We have been employed for some Days past in overhauling all the Sea Provisions, and stowing such as we found in a State of decay to hand, in order to be first expended; but having the people divided between the Ship and the Shore, this work, as well as refitting the Ship, goes on but slowly.

Wednesday, 14th June 1769

Between 2 and 4 o'clock this morning, one of the Natives stole out of the Fort an Iron rake, made use of for the Oven. It hapned to be set up against the Wall, and by that means was Visible from the outside, and had been seen by them in the evening, as a man had been seen lurking about the Fort some Hours before the thing was Missed. I was informed by some others of the Natives that he watch'd an opportunity when the Centinel's back was turned, he hooked it with a long crooked stick, and haled it over the Wall. When I came to be informed of this theft in the Morning I resolved to recover it by some Means or other, and accordingly went and took possession of all the Canoes of any value I could meet with, and brought them into the River behind the Fort to the number of 22, and told the Natives then present (most of them being the owners of the Canoes) that unless the principal things they had stol'n from us were restored I would burn them every one: not that I ever intended to put this in execution, and yet I was very much displeased with them, as they were daily committing, or attempting to commit, one theft or other, when at the same time--contrary to the opinion of everybody, I would not suffer them to be fir'd upon, for this would have been putting it in the power of the Centinels to have fir'd upon them upon the most slitest occasions, as I had before experienced. And I have a great Objection to firing with powder only amongst People who know not the difference, for by this they would learn to despise fire Arms and think their own Arms superior, and if ever such an Opinion prevailed they would certainly attack you, the Event of which might prove as unfavourable to you as them. About Noon the rake was restored us, when they wanted to have their Canoes again; but now, as I had them in my possession, I was resolved to try if they would not redeem them by restoring what they had stol'n from us before. The Principal things which we had lost was the Marine Musquet, a pair of Pistols belonging to Mr. Banks, a Sword belonging to one of the Petty Officers, and a Water Cask, with some other Articles not worth mentioning. Some said that these things were not in the Island, others that Tootaha had them, and those of Tootaha's friends laid the whole to Obariea, and I believe the whole was between these two persons.

Tuesday, 13th June 1769

Some Showers of rain last night, but fair weather the most part of the day. Tootaha, whom we have not seen for some time past, paid us a Visit to-Day. He brought with him a Hog and some Bread Fruit, for which he was well paid.

Monday, 12th June 1769

Yesterday Complaint was made to me by some of the Natives that John Thurman and James Nicholson, Seamen, had taken by force from them several Bows and Arrows and plaited Hair, and the fact being proved upon them they were this day punished with 2 dozen lashes each.

Sunday, 11th June 1769

Cloudy, with rain last night and this morning; the remainder of the day fair weather. This day Mr. Banks and I took Toobouratomita on board the Ship and shew'd him the print containing the Colours worne by the ships of Diffrent Nations, and very soon made him understand that we wanted to know which of them was worn by the ships that were at Ohidea. He at once pitched upon the Spanish Flag and would by no means admit of any other; this, together with several Articles we have lately seen amongst these people, such as Jackets, Shirts, etc., usually worn by Spanish Seamen, proves beyond doubt that they must have been Ships of that Nation, and come from some Port on the Coast of South America.*

* This was of course a mistake, as the ships were French.

Saturday, 10th June 1769

Wind Variable, with very much rain all day and last night.

Wednesday, 7th; Thursday, 8th; Friday, 9th, June 1769

These three days we have been employ'd in Careening both sides of the Ship, and paying them with Pitch and Brimstone. We found her Bottom in good order, and that the worm had not got into it.

Tuesday, 6th June 1769

This day and for some days past we have been informd by several of the Natives that about 10 or 15 months ago Two Ships touched at this Island and stayed 10 days in a Harbour to the Eastward, called Ohidea, the Commander's name was Tootteraso,* --so at least the Natives call him--and that one of the Natives, Brother to the Chief of Ohidea, went away with him. They likewise say these ships brought the venerial distemper to this Island, where it is now as Common as in any part of the world, and which the people bear with as little concern as if they have been accustom'd to it for Ages past. We had not been here many days before some of our People got this disease, and as no such thing hapned to any of the Dolphin's people while she was here, that I ever heard of, I had reason (notwithstanding the improbability of the thing) to think that we had brought it along with us, which gave me no small uneasiness, and did all in my power to prevent its progress, but all I could do was to little purpose, as I was obliged to have the most part of the Ship's Company ashore every day to work upon the Fort, and a Strong Guard every Night; and the Women were so very liberal with their favours--or else Nails, Shirts, etc., were temptations that they could not withstand, that this distemper very soon spread itself over the greatest part of the Ship's company, but now I have the satisfaction to find that the Natives all agree that we did not bring it here.

We have several times seen Iron tools and other Articles with these people that we suspected came not from the Dolphin, and these they now say they had from these two Ships.

* M. de Bougainville, who laid at Hitiaa from April 6th to April 16th, 1768.

Monday, 5th June 1769

Got some of the Bread ashore out of the Bread Room to dry and Clean. Yesterday being His Majesty's birthday, we kept it to-day and had several of the Chiefs to dine with us.

Sunday, 4th June 1769

Punished Archd. Wolf with 2 Dozen lashes for Theft, having broken into one of the Storerooms and stol'n from thence a large quantity of Spike Nails; some few of them where found upon him. This evening the Gentlemen that were sent to observe the Transit of Venus, return'd with success; those that were sent to York Island were well received by the Natives. That Island appear'd to them not to be very fruitful.

Saturday, 3rd June 1769

This day proved as favourable to our purpose as we could wish. Not a Cloud was to be seen the whole day, and the Air was perfectly Clear, so that we had every advantage we could desire in observing the whole of the Passage of the planet Venus over the Sun's Disk. We very distinctly saw an Atmosphere or Dusky shade round the body of the planet, which very much disturbed the times of the Contact, particularly the two internal ones. Dr. Solander observed as well as Mr. Green and myself, and we differ'd from one another in Observing the times of the Contact much more than could be expected. Mr. Green's Telescope and mine where of the same Magnifying power, but that of the Doctor was greater than ours. It was nearly calm the whole day, and the Thermometer Exposed to the Sun about the Middle of the day rose to a degree of heat we have not before met with.

Friday, 2nd June 1769

Very early this morning Lieutenant Hicks, Mr. Clark, Mr. Pickersgill and Mr. Saunders went away in the Pinnace to the Eastward, with orders to fix upon some Convenient situation upon this Island, and there to Observe the Transit of Venus, they being likewise provided with Instruments for that purpose.

Thursday, 1st June 1769

This day I sent Lieutenant Gore in the Long boat to York Island* with Dr. Monkhouse and Mr. Sporing (a Gentleman belonging to Mr. Banks) to Observe the Transit of Venus, Mr. Green having furnished them with Instruments for that purpose. Mr. Banks and some of the Natives of this Island went along with them.

* Eimeo, westward of, and near to Tahiti.

Now known as Moorea.