Wednesday, 31st, January 1770

Little wind and Variable. In the P.M. the Carpenters having prepared the 2 Posts with inscriptions upon them, setting forth the Ship's Name, Month, and Year, one of them was set up at the Watering Place, on which was hoisted the Union flag; and in the Morning I took the other over to the Island which is known by the name of Motuouru, and is the one that lies nearest to the Sea; but before I attempted to set up the Post I went first to the Hippa, having Dr. Monkhouse and Tupia along with me. We here met with the old Man I have before spoke of. The first thing I did was to inquire after the Man said to be kill'd by our people, and the one that was wounded at the same time, when it did not appear to me that any such accidents had happened. I next (by means of Tupia) explain'd to the old Man and several others that we were Come to set up a Mark upon the Island, in order to shew to any ship that might put into this place that we had been here before. They not only gave their free Consent to set it up, but promised never to pull it down. I then gave every one a present of one thing or another; to the old man I gave Silver, three penny pieces dated 1763, and Spike Nails with the King's Broad Arrow cut deep in them; things that I thought were most likely to remain long among them. After I had thus prepared the way for setting up the post, we took it up to the highest part of the Island, and after fixing it fast in the ground, hoisted thereon the Union flag, and I dignified this Inlet with the name of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and took formal possession of it and the Adjacent lands in the Name and for the use of his Majesty. We then drank her Majesty's health in a Bottle of wine, and gave the Empty bottle to the old man (who had attended us up the hill), with which he was highly pleased. Whilst the Post was setting up we asked the old man about the Strait or Passage into the Eastern sea, and he very plainly told us there was a Passage, and as I had some Conjectures that the lands to the South-West of this Strait (which we are now at) was an Island, and not a Continent, we questioned the old Man about it, who said it consisted of two Wannuas, that is 2 lands or Islands that might be Circumnavigated in a few days, even in 4. This man spoke of 3 lands, the 2 above mentioned which he called Tovy-poinammu,*which Signifies green Talk or Stone, such as they make their Tools or ornaments, etc., and for the third he pointed to the land on the East side of the Strait; this, he said, was a large land, and that it would take up a great many Moons to sail round it; this he called Aeheino Mouwe, a name many others before had called it by. That part which borders on the strait he called Teiria Whitte. After we had done our business upon the Island we returned on board, bringing the old Man along with us, who after dinner went ashore in a Canoe that came to attend upon him.

* The two Wannuas were doubtless the peninsulas lying west of Queen Charlotte's Sound. The third was the North Island. Te Wai Pounamu (The Water of the Greenstone, of which the most prized weapons were made) is the native name of the Middle Island; but there must have been some confusion as to the possibility of getting round this in four days. The name of the North Island is Te Ika o Maui (The Fish of Maui), but is given by Cook as Aeheino Mouwe. It has been suggested (Rusden) that the name given to him was Tehinga o Maui (The Fishing of Maui), and imperfectly rendered.

Tuesday, 30th, January 1770

Winds at North-West, Gentle breezes, and fair weather. Early in the A.M. a boat was sent to one of the Islands to get Sellery to boil for the People's breakfasts. While our people were gathering it near some empty huts about 20 of the Natives landed there--Men, Women, and Children. They had no sooner got out of their Canoe than 5 or 6 Women set down together, and cut and sacrificed themselves--viz., their Legs, Shins, Arms, and Faces, some with Shells, and others with pieces of Jaspar. So far as our people could understand them, this was done on account of their husbands being lately killed and devoured by their Enemies. While the women was performing this Ceremony, the Men went about repairing the Huts without showing the least Concern. The Carpenter went with part of his people into the Woods to cut and Square some Timber to saw into boards for the use of the Ship, and to prepare two Posts to be set up with inscriptions on them.

Monday, 29th, January 1770

Winds as yesterday. P.M. rainy weather, the remainder fair and Cloudy. Pretty early in the A.M. an old man, who had made us several visits upon our first Arrival here, came on board, and told us that one of our boats had fir'd upon and wounded 2 of their people, one of which was dead of his wounds. This affair hapned on Sunday was a week, and never before now came to my Knowledge; on that day the Master and 5 Petty officers desir'd to have a small boat to go a fishing; but instead of Keeping within the usual bounds and under the protection of the Ship, they went over to the Hippa on the Island, from which some of the inhabitants put off in 2 Canoes, as they thought to attack them; this Caused the Master to fire, and, according to the report of the old Man, wounded 2, one of which is since dead; but this last circumstance was soon after contradicted by another of the Natives, who Mr. Green and Tupia saw ashore, and I wish this last report may be true, because I find the reasons for firing upon them are not very Justifiable. This morning I went out to the Mouth of the Inlet and landed upon the West point, and from the Top of a pretty high hill which is there I had a view of this Coast to the North-West. The farthest land I could see in that Quarter was an Island* about 10 Leagues off, and lying pretty near the Main, and is the same as hath been before mentioned. Between this Island and the place where I was lay some other Islands close under the Shore, which forms several Bays, where there appears to be safe Anchorage for Shipping. After I had set the different points, etc., we Erected upon the Top of the Hill a Tower or Pile of Stones, in which we left a Piece of Silver Coin, some Musquet Balls, Beads, etc., and left flying upon it a piece of an old Pendant. After this we return'd to the Boat, and in our way to the Ship visited some of the Natives we met with along shore, and purchased of them a small quantity of fish.

* Stephens Island. Cape Stephens, off which it lies, forms the western termination of the strait, Cook's, between the two islands of New Zealand. The Coast between this and Cape Jackson, where Cook was standing, is thickly indented with inlets of great extent. The two Capes were named after the Secretaries of the Admiralty.

Sunday, 28th, January 1770

Strong Gales westerly. P.M. fair and Cloudy, the remainder thick, hazey weather, with much rain.

Saturday, 27th, January 1770

Fresh gales, Westerly. This day we got the Tiller properly secured, which hath been the Employment of the Armourers and part of the Carpenters since we Anchor'd at this place; the former in repairing and making new Iron work, and the Latter in fixing a Transom,* for the want of which the Tiller has often been in danger of being broke; the Iron braces that supply'd the want of a Transom have broke every time they have been repair'd. Coopers still employ'd repairing the Casks; some hands with the Long boat getting on board Stones to put into the bottom of the bread room to bring the Ship more by the Stern; while others were employ'd cutting wood, repairing the rigging, and fishing.

* A transom is a curved piece of wood which supports the end of the tiller.

Friday, 26th, January 1770

Gentle breezes and pleasant weather. In the P.M. I made a little Excursion in the pinnace along shore towards the Mouth of the inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We found in a small Cove several of the Natives, of whom we purchased a quantity of fresh fish; and upon our return to the Ship found that the Sean had been equally as Successfull, which we generally haul morning and evening, and seldom fail of getting fish sufficient for all hands. In the A.M. I made an Excursion into one of the Bays which lye on the East side of the inlet, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. Upon our landing we assended a very high hill, from which we had a full View of the passage I had before discovered, and the land on the opposite shore, which appeared to be about 4 Leagues from us; but as it was hazey near the Horizon we could not see far to the South-East. However, I had now seen enough of this passage to Convince me that there was the Greatest probability in the World of its running into the Eastern Sea, as the distance of that Sea from this place cannot Exceed 20 Leagues even to where we where. Upon this I resolved after putting to Sea to Search this passage with the Ship. We found on the Top of the Hill a parcel of loose stones, of which we built a Pyramid, and left in it some Musquet balls, small Shott, beads, and whatever we had about us that was likely to stand the test of Time; after this we descended the hill, and found along with Tupia and the boat's Crew several of the Natives, setting in the most free and friendly manner imaginable. Tupia always accompanies us in every Excursion we make, and proves of infinate Service. In our return to the Ship we visited the Hippa we had seen on Tuesday last, which is situated on a small Island, or rather a Rock. The inhabitants of this place invited us ashore with their usual Marks of Friendship, and shew'd us all over the place; which indeed was soon done, for it was very small, yet it contain'd a good number of people, and they had in it, Split and hanging up to dry, a prodidgious quantity of various sorts of small fish, a part of which they sold to us for such Trifles as we had about us.

Thursday, 25th, January 1770

Winds at North West, a Gentle breeze and fair weather. P.M. the Long boat having return'd with a Load of Grass, she was employ'd bringing on board Wood and Water, and the Caulkers having finished Caulking the Ship's sides (a thing they have been employ'd upon ever since we came here), they were pay'd with Tar. Early in the A.M. the Long boat was sent again for Grass, and return'd at Noon with a Load.

Wednesday, 24th, January 1770

P.M., had a fresh breeze southerly and cloudy weather. After dinner I employ'd myself in carrying on the survey of the place, and upon one of the Islands where I landed were a number of houses but no inhabitants, neither had any been there lately. In the morning the Gunner was sent ashore with the remainder of the powder to-day, and the Long boat was sent with a Gang of hands to one of the Islands to cut Grass for our Sheep, and the rest of the people were employ'd about the usual work of the Ship. This forenoon some of us visited the Hippa which is situated on the point of the Island mentioned on our first arrival;* the inhabitants of this place shew'd not the least dislike at our coming, but, on the contrary, with a great deal of seeming good nature shew'd us all over the place. We found among them some human bones, the flesh of which they told us they had eat; they likewise informed us that there was no passage into the Sea thro' this inlet, as I had imagined their was, because above where I was in the Boat it turn'd away to the Westward. Leaving these people, we Travelled to the other end of the Island, and there took Water and Crossed over upon the Main, where we met with several Houses that were at present, or had very lately been, inhabited, but we saw but very few of the inhabitants, and these were in their Boats fishing; after Viewing this place we returned on board to Dinner.

* Motuara.

Tuesday, 23rd, January 1770

P.M., Winds Southerly, a fresh breeze. Agreeable to what is mentioned above I took one hand with me and Climbed up to the Top of one of the Hills, but when I came there I was hindered from seeing up the inlet by higher hills, which I could not come at for impenetrable woods, but I was abundantly recompensed for the trouble I had in assending the Hill, for from it I saw what I took to be the Eastern Sea, and a Strait or passage from it into the Western Sea; a little to the Eastward of the Entrance of the inlet in which we now lay with the Ship. The Main land which lies on the South-East side of this inlet appeared to me to be a narrow ridge of very high hills, and to form a part of the South-West side of the Strait;* the land on the opposite side seem'd to tend away East, as far as the Eye could see. To the South-East appeared an Open Sea, and this I took to be the Eastern. I likewise saw some Islands lying on the East side of the inlet, which before I had taken to be a part of the main land. As soon as I had desended the hill and we had refreshed ourselves, we set out in order to return to the Ship, and in our way passed through and Examin'd the Harbours, Coves, etc., that lay behind the Islands above mentioned. In this rout we met with an old Village in which were a good many Houses, but no Body had lived in them lately; we likewise saw another that was inhabited, but the day being so far spent, that we had not time to go to it, but made the best of our way to the Ship, which we reached between 8 and 9 o'Clock. In the night had much rain with Cloudy, Hazey weather, which continued by intervals until Noon.

* Cook's Strait, which divides the two islands of New Zealand.

Monday, 22nd, January 1770

P.M., and in the night had variable light Airs and Calms. A.M., had a fresh breeze Southerly and Cloudy weather. In the morning the people were set about the necessary business of the Ship, and I set out in the Pinnace accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, with a view of examining the head of the inlet, but after rowing between 4 and 5 Leagues up it, and finding no probability of reaching it, or even seeing the end,* the wind being against us and the day already half spent; we landed at Noon on the South-East side in order to try to get upon one of the Hills, to view the inlet from thence.

* The head of Queen Charlotte's Sound is 20 miles from where the Endeavour was lying.

Sunday, 21st, January 1770

P.M., a Gentle breeze of Wind Southerly, the remainder light Airs and Calm with clear, settled weather. P.M., the people employ'd as usual, and at 8 o'Clock we return'd on board the Pinnace from surveying the bay, in the doing of which I met with an Excellent Harbour, but saw no inhabitants or any Cultivated land. In the A.M. after hauling the Sean for fish, I gave every body leave to go ashore at the Watering place to amuse themselves as they thought proper.

Saturday, 20th, January 1770

Winds Southerly and fair, pleasant weather. Employ'd wooding, Watering, etc., and in the A.M. sent part of the Powder ashore to be Air'd. Some of the Natives brought alongside in one of their Canoes 4 of the heads of the Men they had lately kill'd; both the Hairy Scalps and Skin of the faces were on. Mr. Banks bought one of the 4, but they would not part with any of the other on any account whatever. The one Mr. Banks got had received a blow on the Temple that had broke the Skull. This morning I set out in the Pinnace accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, in order to Survey the West Coast of the Bay; we took our rout towards the head of the Bay, but it was near noon before we had got beyond the place we had been before.

Friday, 19th, January 1770

Winds and weather as yesterday, and the employment of the people the same. In the P.M. some of our people found in the Skirts of the Wood 3 hip Bones of Men; they lay near to a Hole or Oven, that is a place where the Natives dress their Victuals; this Circumstance, trifling as it is, is still a further proof that these people eat human flesh. In the A.M. set up the Forge to repair the Braces of the Tiller and such other Iron work as was wanting. The Natives came alongside and sold us a quantity of large Mackrell for Nails, pieces of Cloth and paper, and in this Traffick they never once attempted to defraud us of any one thing but dealt as fair as people could do.

Thursday, 18th, January 1770

Winds mostly from the South-West; a gentle breeze and Clear settled weather. P.M., righted the Ship and sent on shore all or most of our empty Casks, and in the Morning the Coopers went about Trimming them, and the Carpenters went to work to Caulk the sides and to repair other defects in the Ship, while the seamen are Employ'd in the hold Cutting Wood, etc., etc. I made a little Excursion in the pinnace in order to take a View of the Bay, accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing remarkable, and as we were on the West side of the Bay where the land is so closely cover'd with wood that we could not penetrate into the country.

Wednesday, 17th, January 1770

Light Airs, Calm and pleasant weather. P.M., righted ship and got the other Side ready for heeling out, and in the Evening Haul'd the Sean and caught a few fish. While this was doing some of us went in the pinnace into another Cove, not far from where the Ship lays; in going thither we meet with a Woman floating upon the Water, who to all appearance had not been dead many days. Soon after we landed we meet with 2 or 3 of the Natives who not long before must have been regaling themselves upon human flesh, for I got from one of them the bone of the Fore arm of a Man or Woman which was quite fresh, and the flesh had been but lately picked off, which they told us they had eat; they gave us to understand that but a few days before they had taken, Kill'd, and Eat a Boats Crew of their Enemies or strangers, for I believe they look upon all strangers as Enemies. From what we could learn the woman we had seen floating upon the Water was in this Boat and had been drowned in the fray. There was not one of us that had the least doubt but what these people were cannibals; but the finding this bone with part of the sinews fresh upon it was a stronger proof than any we had yet met with, and, in order to be fully satisfied of the truth of what they had told us, we told one of them that it was not the bone of a man, but that of a dog; but he, with great fervency, took hold of his Fore Arm, and told us again that it was that bone: and to convince us that they had eat the flesh he took hold of the flesh of his own Arm with his teeth and made Signs of Eating. A.M., Careen'd, Scrub'd, and pay'd the Starboard side of the Ship; while this was doing some of the Natives came alongside seemingly only to look at us. There was a woman among them who had her Arms, thighs, and Legs cut in several place's; this was done by way of Mourning for her Husband who had very lately been Kill'd and Eat by some of their Enemies as they told us and pointed towards' the place where it was done, which lay somewhere to the Eastward. Mr. Banks got from one of them a Bone of the fore Arm, much in the same state as the one before mentioned; and to show us that they eat the flesh, they bit and Naw'd the bone and draw'd it through their Mouths, and this in such a manner as plainly Shew'd that the flesh to them was a Dainty Bit.

Tuesday, 16th, January 1770

[January 1770. In Queen Charlotte's Sound, New Zealand.]
Variable light Airs and Clear settled weather. At 1 p.m. hauled close round the South-West end of the Island, on which stands the Village before mention'd, the inhabitants of which were all in Arms. At 2 o'Clock we anchor'd in a very Snug Cove,* which is on the North-West side of the Bay facing the South-West end of the Island in 11 fathoms; soft Ground, and moor'd with the Stream Anchor. By this time several of the Natives had come off to the Ship in their Canoes, and after heaving a few stones at us and having some Conversation with Tupia, some of them Ventur'd on board, where they made but a very short stay before they went into their Canoes again, and soon after left us altogether. I then went ashore in the bottom of the Cove, accompanied by most of the Gentlemen on board. We found a fine Stream of Excellent Water, and as to wood the land is here one intire forest. Having the Sean with us we made a few hauls and caught 300 pounds weight of different sorts of fish, which were equally distributed to the Ship's Company. A.M., Careen'd the Ship, scrubb'd and pay'd the Larboard side. Several of the Natives Visited us this Morning, and brought with them some stinking fish, which, however, I order'd to be bought up to encourage them in this kind of Traffick, but Trade at this time seem'd not to be their Object, but were more inclinable to Quarrel, and as the Ship was upon the Carreen I thought they might give us some Trouble, and perhaps hurt some of our people that were in the Boats alongside. For this reason I fir'd some small shott at one of the first Offenders; this made them keep at a proper distance while they stay'd, which was not long before they all went away. These people declared to us this morning, that they never either saw or heard of a Ship like ours being upon this Coast before. From this it appears that they have no Tradition among them of Tasman being here, for I believe Murtherers bay, the place where he anchor'd, not to be far from this place;** but this cannot be it from the Latitude, for I find by an Observation made this day at Noon that we are at an Anchor in 41 degrees 5 minutes 32 seconds South, which is 15 miles to the Southward of Murtherers Bay.***

* Ship Cove, in Queen Charlotte's Sound.

** Tasman's Massacre Bay lies 70 miles to the West-North-West.

*** The bay in Queen Charlotte's Sound in which the Endeavour anchored, Ship Cove, lies 7 miles within the entrance on the western shore.

Monday, 15th, January 1770

Fore and Middle parts, fresh breezes between the West and North-West and fair weather. At 8 p.m. we were within 2 Leagues of the Land, we discover'd in the morning, having run 10 Leagues since Noon; the land seen then bearing South 63 degrees West bore now North 59 degrees West, distant 7 or 8 Leagues and makes like an Island. Between this land or Island and Cape Egmont is a very broad and Deep Bay or inlet the South-West side of which we are now upon, and here the Land is of a Considerable height, distinguished by Hills and Valleys, and the Shore seems to form several Bays, into one of which I intend to go with the Ship in order to Careen her (she being very foul) and to repair some few defects, recruit our Stock of Wood, Water, etc. With this View we Keept plying on and off all Night, having from 80 to 63 fathoms Water; at daylight stood in for an inlet which runs in South-West.* At 8 a.m. we were got within the Entrance which may be known by a Reef of Rocks stretching off from the North-West point, and some rocky Islands lying off the South-East point. At 9 o'clock being little wind and Variable we were carried by the Tide or Current within 2 Cables length of the North-West Shore where we had 54 fathoms, but with the help of our Boats we got Clear, at this time we saw rise up twice near the Ship a Sea Lyon, the Head of which was Exactly like the head of the Male one described by Lord Anson. We likewise saw a Canoe with some of the Natives cross the Bay, and a Village situated upon a point of an Island, which lies 7 or 8 miles with the Entrance. At Noon we were the length of this Island, and being little wind had the Boats ahead Towing.

* Queen Charlotte's Sound, in the north-east part of the Middle Island.

Sunday, 14th, January 1770

[In North Part of Cook's Strait.]
P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West. In the evening came to North-West by West and Continued so all night and blow'd a fresh breeze; we steer'd along shore East-South-East and South-East by East, keeping between 2 and 3 Leagues off. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. Saw for a few Minutes Mount Egmont which bore from us North 17 West, distant 10 Leagues. At 5 a.m. Steer'd South-East by South the land inclining more Southerly, but half an hour after we saw land bearing South-West by South which we hauld up for.* At this time the weather was squally attended with showers of rain. At noon had a Steady fresh breeze at West by North and Cloudy weather; the South-West Extremity of the Land in sight bore South 63 degrees West and some high land, which makes like an Island lying under the Main, bore South-South-East, distant 5 Leagues. The bottom of the Bay** we are now in, and which bears from us South we cannot see, altho' it is very Clear in that Quarter. Our Latitude by Observation is 40 degrees 27 minutes South, Longitude 184 degrees 39 minutes West.***

* The north end of the South Island, New Zealand.

** This was the Northern part of Cook's Strait, but it was thought at the time to be a bay.

*** The western side of the North Island, which Cook took such trouble to follow, is 400 miles long, and is a most dangerous coast to explore, on account of the winds being mostly on shore. This prevented him from getting very close; and he missed the entrances to several harbours, such as the Manukau, the Waikato River, Whaingaroa, and others. No canoes were seen, as the coast is not favourable for such craft.

Saturday, 13th, January 1770

Winds Variable. P.M., Cloudy weather. At 7 o'Clock sounded and had 42 fathoms water, being distant from the Shore between 2 and 3 Leagues and the Peaked Mountain as near as I could judge bore East. After it was Dark saw a fire upon the Shore, a sure sign that the Country is inhabited. In the night had some Thunder, Lightning, and Rain; at 5 a.m. saw for a few Minutes the Top of the Peaked Mountain above the Clouds bearing North-East. It is of a prodidgious height and its Top is cover'd with Everlasting Snow; it lies in the Latitude of 39 degrees 16 minutes South, and in the Longitude of 185 degrees 15 minutes West. I have named it Mount Egmont in honour of the Earl of Egmont.* This mountain seems to have a pretty large base and to rise with a Gradual Ascent to the Peak, and what makes it more Conspicuous is its being situated near the Sea and in the Midst of a flat Country which afforded a very good Aspect, being Cloathed with Woods and Verdure. The shore under the foot of this Mountain forms a large Cape which I have named Cape Egmont; it lies South-South-West 1/2 West, 27 Leagues from Albetross Point. On the North-East side of the Cape lay 2 Small Islands near to a very remarkable Point of the Main that riseth to a good height in the very form of a Sugar Loaf. To the Southward of the Cape the Land tends away South-East by East and East-South-East, and seems to be every where a bold shore. At Noon had variable light Airs and Clear weather. Latitude observ'd 39 degrees 32 minutes South. Cape Egmont bore about North-East, and we were about 4 Leagues from the Shore in that direction; in this situation had 40 fathoms Water.

* The Earl of Egmont was First Lord of the Admiralty from 1763 to 1766. Mount Egmont is a magnificent conical mountain, surrounded on three sides by the sea, from which it rises to a height of 8300 feet.

Friday, 12th, January 1770

Gentle breezes from between the North-West and North-North-East; Fore and Middle part Clear Weather; the Latter part dark and Cloudy; steering along shore South by West and South-South-West at the distance of 4 Leagues off. At 7 p.m. saw the top of the Peaked Mountain to the Southward above the Clouds bearing from us South; at the same time the Southermost land we had in Sight bore South by West. Took several Azimuths both in the Evening and the Morning which gave the Variation 14 degrees 15 minutes Easterly. At Noon had the winds very Variable with dark cloudy weather attended with excessive heavy Showers of rain; at this time we were about 3 Leagues from the Shore which lies under the Peaked Mountain before mentioned. This Peak we did not see, it being hid in the Clouds, but judged it to bear about South-South-East, and some very remarkable peaked Islands, lying under the Shore, bore East-South-East, distant 3 or 4 Leagues.

Thursday, 11th, January 1770

At 1/2 past Noon the wind Shifted at Once from North-North-East to South-South-West with which we stood to the Westward until 4 p.m., then Tack'd and stood on Shore until' 7, when we again stood to the Westward having but little wind. At this Time Albetross Point bore North-East, distant near 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land in sight bore South-South-West 1/2 West being a very high Mountain and made very much like the Peak of Teneriff; in this Situation had 30 fathoms Water; had little wind all night; at 4 a.m. Tacked and stood in Shore, but it soon after fell Calm and being in 42 fathoms Water; the People caught about 10 or 12 Bream. At 11 a light breeze sprung up from the Westward and we made Sail to the Southward. At Noon was by Observation in the Latitude of 38 degrees 4 minutes South; Albetross Point bore due East, distant 5 or 6 Leagues.

Wednesday, 10th, January 1770

[Off Kawhia Harbour, North Island, New Zealand.]
Winds at North-North-East and North, the first part a Gentle breeze, the remainder a fresh breeze and Cloudy with rain towards Noon. Continued a South-East Course until' 8 o'Clock p.m. at which time we had run 7 Leagues since Noon, and were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the Land which appear'd to be low and Sandy such as I have before Discribed, and we then steer'd South-East by East in a Parrallel direction with the Coast, our Depth of Water from 48 to 34 fathoms; a black sandy bottom; at daylight found ourselves between 2 and 3 Leagues from the land which was of a Moderate height and Cloathed with Wood and Verdure. At 7 o'Clock steer'd South by East and afterwards South by West, the land laying in that direction; at 9 was abreast of a Point of Land which rises sloping from the Sea to a Considerable height; it lies in the Latitude of 37 degrees 43 minutes South; I named it Woodyhead. South-West 1/2 West 11 Miles from this Head is a very small Island which we named Gannet Island, on account of the Great Number of these Birds we saw upon it. At Noon a high Craggy point bore East-North-East, distance 1 1/2 Leagues; this point I have named Albetross Point; it lies in the Latitude of 38 degrees 4 minutes South, and Longitude 184 degrees 42 minutes West, and from Woodyhead South 17 minutes West 7 Leagues. On the North side of it the shore forms a Bay wherein there appears to be anchorage and Shelter for Shipping against Southerly Winds;* our Course and distance saild since Yesterday at Noon is South 37 East, distance 69 Miles. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 30 West, distant 82 Leagues.

* Kawhia Harbour. There is a settlement here.

Tuesday, 9th, January 1770

Gentle breezes between the North-East and North-West, Cloudy weather sailing along shore within sight of Land at Noon. Course and distance Sailed South 37 East, 69 Miles. Latitude in per Observation 36 degrees 39 minutes South; the place we were abreast of the 4th Instant, which we at first took for a Bay or Inlet* bore North-East by North, distant 5 1/2 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 29 West, distant 47 Leagues.

* Kaipara.

Monday, 8th, January 1770

Gentle breezes at North-East and pleasant weather. At 6 p.m. saw the land bearing East, and sometime after saw a Turtle upon the Water. At Noon the land Extending from North to East, distant 5 or 6 Leagues, being the high land before mentioned and which it intersected in 2 places each having the appearance of a Bay or inlet, but I believe it is only low land.*  Course and distance made good since Yesterday at Noon is South 33 East, 53 miles. Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 45 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen North 25 West, distant 30 Leagues.

* These were Hokianga and False Hokianga.

Sunday, 7th, January 1770

Variable light Airs and Sometimes Calm with Clear pleasant weather. At daylight saw the land which we took to be Cape Maria Van Diemen bearing North-North-East, distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Latitude in per Observation 35 degrees 0 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North, distant 11 Leagues.

Saturday, 6th, January 1770

First part a fresh breeze at South-West by South; in the night had it at South. A.M., light Airs from the Southward next to a Calm, and Clear weather. Course made good to-day is North 76 West; distance 8 Miles; Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 8 minutes South.

Friday, 5th, January 1770

Fresh gales at South-West with frequent Squalls attended with rain. The South-West swell still keeping up we stood to the North-West all this day with a prest Sail in order to get an Offing. At Noon True Course made good North 38 West, distance 102 Miles. Latitude in per Observation 35 degrees 10 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 10 degrees East; distant 41 Miles.

Thursday, 4th, January 1770

[Off Kaipara Harbour, North Island, New Zealand.]

Winds at South-West and South-West by South; mostly a fresh Gale accompanied with a rowling sea from the same Quarter. Being desirous of taking as near a View of the coast as we could with safety we keept Edging in for it until 7 o'Clock p.m., being at this time 6 Leagues from the Land. We then hauld our wind to South-East and keept on that Course close upon the wind all night, sounding several times but had no ground with 100 and 110 fathoms. At 8 o'Clock a.m. was about 5 Leagues from the Land and a place which lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 25 minutes that had the Appearance of a Bay or inlet bore East.* In order to see more of this place we kept on our Course until 11 o'Clock when we were not above 3 Leagues from it, and then found that it was neither a Bay nor inlet, but low land bounded on each side by higher lands which caused the deception. At this time we Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon we were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the Land and in the Latitude of 36 degrees 31 minutes and Longitude 185 degrees 50 minutes West. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 25 West, distant 44 1/2 Leagues. From this I form my judgment of the direction of this Coast, which is nearly South-South-East 3/4 East and North-North-West 3/4 West, and must be nearly a Strait Shore. In about the Latitude 35 degrees 45 minutes is some high land adjoining to the Sea; to the Southward of that the land is of a moderate heigth, and wears a most desolate and inhospitable aspect. Nothing is to be seen but long sand Hills, with hardly any Green thing upon them, and the great Sea which the prevailing Westerly winds impell upon the Shore must render this a very Dangerous Coast. This I am so fully sencible of, that was we once clear of it I am determined not to come so near Again, if I can possible avoid it, unless we have a very favourable wind indeed.**

* This was Kaipara Harbour, although, on a closer inspection, Cook thought he had been deceived. It is the largest harbour on this part of the coast. The town of Helensville stands on one of its arms.

** The mingled audacity and caution of Cook's navigation off this coast must awake the admiration of every seaman.

Wednesday, 3rd, January 1770

Winds at West-South-West and South-West; a fresh breeze and Squally, the remainder moderate with frequent Squalls attended with rain. In the evening shortned Sail and at Midnight Tack'd and made a Trip to the North-West until 2 a.m., then wore and stood to the Southward. At daylight made Sail and Edged away in order to make the Land; at 10 saw it bearing North-East and appeared to be high land; at Noon it extended from North to East-North-East distant, by Estimation, 8 or 10 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 2 degrees 30 minutes West, distant 33 Leagues. Our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 2 minutes South. A high rowling swell from the South-West.

Tuesday, 2nd, January 1770

Fresh breezes at South-South-West and West accompanied with a rowling Sea from the South-West. At 5 p.m. the wind Veering to the Westward we Tack'd and Stood to the Southward. At this time the North Cape bore East 3/4 North and was just open of a point that lies 3 Leagues West by South from it, being now well assured that it is the Northermost Extremity of this Country and is the East point of a Peninsula which Stretches out North-West and North-West by North 17 or 18 Leagues, and as I have before observed is for the most part low and narrow except its Extremity where the land is Tollerable high and Extends 4 or 5 Leagues every way. Cape Maria Van Diemen is the West point of the Peninsula and lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 30 minutes South; Longitude 187 degrees 18 minutes West from Greenwich.* From this Cape the Land Trends away South-East by South and South-East to and beyond Mount Camel, and is everywhere a barren shore affording no better prospect than what ariseth from white sand Banks. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by North and Cape Maria Van Diemen North-East by East, distant 4 Leagues. At 5 a.m. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-North-East 1/2 East and Mount Camel East. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35 degrees 17 minutes and Cape Maria Van Diemen by judgment bore North distant 16 Leagues; having no land in sight, not daring to go near it as the wind blow'd fresh right on shore and a high rowling Sea from the Same Quarter, and knowing that there was no Harbour that we could put into in case we were Caught upon a lee shore.

* This is extraordinarily accurate, seeing that the ship was never close to the Cape, and the observations were all taken in bad weather. The latitude is exact, and the longitude is only three miles in error. The persistence with which Cook clung to this point until he could resume his exploration and examination of the coast is very characteristic of the man. He would not willingly miss a mile of it, nor did he.

Monday, 1st, January 1770

P.M., fresh breezes at South-West by South and Squally, the remainder moderate breezes at South-West by South and South-West clear weather. At 7 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Westward. At this time Mount Camel bore North 83 degrees East and the Northermost land or Cape Maria Van Diemen North by West, being distant from the Nearest Shore 3 Leagues; in this situation had 40 fathoms Water.

NOTE. Mount Camel doth not appear to lay little more than a Mile from the Sea on this Side* and about the same distance on the other, so that the land here cannot be above 2 or 3 Miles broad from Sea to Sea, which is what I computed when we were in Sandy Bay on the other side of the Coast. At 6 a.m. Tack'd and Stood to the Eastward, the Island of the 3 Kings North-West by North. At Noon Tack'd again and stood to the Westward, being in the Latitude of 34 degrees 37 minutes South; the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by North, distant 10 or 11 Leagues; and Cape Maria Van Diemen North 31 East, distant 4 1/2 Leagues; in this situation had 54 fathoms. I cannot help thinking but what it will appear a little strange that at this season of the Year we should be 3 Weeks in getting 10 Leagues to the Westward and 5 Weeks in getting 50 Leagues, for so long it is since we pass'd Cape Brett; but it will hardly be credited that in the midst of Summer and in the Latitude of 35 degrees South such a Gale of wind as we have had could have hapned which for its Strength and Continuance was such as I hardly was ever in before. Fortunately at this time we were a good distance from land, otherwise it would have proved fatal to us.**

* It is, in fact, about six miles, but the coast in front is so low that the mistake in estimation is very natural.) 

** The north point of New Zealand is celebrated for bad weather.